Hidden away in a corner of Union Square in Somerville, MA you will find a new German wunderkind that really is the wurst. At Bronwyn you can expect to be transported to a cozy Central European house of wunder. The second you walk into the gorgeous giant wooden door the dimly lit interior beckons you in with little pops of string lights dangled behind the bar and surrounding the windows. Separated into two separate rooms, and also a bier garten outdoor area, the main dining area is casual and woodsy. The best way to describe the feeling inside is the most welcoming German sausage chalet.
They offer a fine variety of beverages including bier from the great barrel dens of Germany, Poland, Czech Republic, and Austria; as well as an extensive wine list including the hot mulled wine classic Nürnberger Glühwein. Rounded out by inventive cocktails that use the finest liquor in the history of college bars, Jägermeister, which in actuality is a German digestif. Overall there is enough authentic booze on their pages long menu you will be happily singing some Scorpions after a little bit.
Along with all of those adult beverages you have to get some of the starters and snacks to put down a solid base for all that drinking. A key standouts were the pickled eggs, which weren’t overly picked and topped with the most pleasingly befuddling cocoa mustard. The Urnebes which was a Serbian cheese spread that reminded me of a garlicky European pimiento cheese, was smooth and addictive. Hopping on the meat train early we went with the Charcuterie plate, which had tons of porcine pleasures awaiting us. Standing out on the platter were the crispy fried pig ears, with the crunch giving way to the tenderest of porky goodness. The Reibekuchen, or potato pancake was dense and monstrous packing a whole bushel of spuds into one flavorful mound. We also rounded the appetizer round of dinner with a couple giant pretzels for good measure.
The main entrees were some of the best classic Bavarian I have ever had. The Wurst Trio was overloaded with three plump and succulent meat logs. The star of the three would have to be the currywurst, it was fragrantly flecked with the most intense spices that expounded upon the already delicious meat. Another great dish worth checking out were the Polish inspired Pierogis. They tasted as if the finest southern pulled pork was trapped in a pocket of wundermint along with some bitter kale that cut right through the rich fattiness of the pork. The classic Schnitzl was a big hit at the table with half the diners ordering it and they were not disappointed at all. The pounded thin pork cutlet was crunchified to perfection and as tasty as ever topped with the most delectable bacon cream sauce. Rounding out the entrees was the scrumptious Spätzle. A little bit bigger than the Spätzle I am traditionally use to, however the red onion marmalade and cheddar cheese made the big pillows of dough really sing.
Whatever desserts they have to offer at Bonwyn get them, because they are all delicious. The dense German Chocolate Cake more the texture of a coconut packed fudge brownie, but the lush chocolate flavor rolled over your tongue with every bite. The classic apple strudel was also undeniably scrumptious. It had the perfect balance with a sour whipped cream that really mellowed out the bitter and sweet aspect of the tart.
Overall Bronwyn is at the top of their game when it comes to bringing a little bit of Central European fare to the mean streets of Union Sq. Go grab a Czech Pilsner, a giant crusty pretzel, and settle in for the wurst meal you will ever have in your life. (god I love puns)